IKARIA, GREECE — As the clock struck midnight over the Aegean Sea, the sleepy hills of Ikaria buzzed with life. Beneath the starlit sky in the courtyard of the church of St. Elijah, music echoed, feet shuffled in unison, and the scent of grilled meats lingered in the summer air. The island’s famed panigiri a traditional folk festival was in full swing.
Tourists mingled with locals, some of whom have danced these steps for decades. The circle swayed to the rhythm of the Ikariotikos, a centuries-old dance said to date back to the 15th century.
“People of all ages dance together, and the energy that emerges is fabulous,” said Katerina Gerner, a German yoga instructor who splits her year between Berlin and Ikaria. “It’s like entering a trance through music and movement. Everyone is smiling.”
Known for its residents’ longevity and laid-back lifestyle, Ikaria has become synonymous with joyful simplicity. The island’s panigiria — plural of panigiri — are a testament to this spirit.
Unlike most Greek villages where such festivals peak around August 15 — the religious holiday marking the Dormition of the Virgin Mary — Ikaria keeps the celebration going well into mid-September. Each festival is tied to a saint’s feast day, like that of Prophet Elijah on July 20 or Saint John on August 28.
Beyond celebration, the events hold deep cultural and social significance. Panagiota Andrianopoulou, an ethnologist at the Museum of Modern Greek Culture, says these gatherings serve a greater purpose.
“They consolidate local values — hospitality, openness, and community,” Andrianopoulou explained. “Historically, they were also hubs for economic exchange. Villagers traded animals, fabrics, dairy, and dried fruits.”
The island’s strong leftist tradition and communal mindset have long fostered inclusivity. Ikaria was among the first places in Greece to welcome outsiders to these traditionally local events.
“We want everyone to feel like part of the family,” said Kostas Politis, a festival organizer. “It’s about togetherness. That’s why we prepare everything ourselves — the food, the wine, the music.”
local goat, mutton, pork, and generous pours of retsina, a resin-flavored wine with ancient roots. Yet not all festivities have gone smoothly. In previous years, panigiria in other parts of Greece have led to foodborne illnesses. In one case in the Peloponnese village of Ilia, nearly 40 people were hospitalized after eating boiled mutton.
Despite such incidents, the festivals continue to thrive, drawing young and old into the warm embrace of music and dance.
As dawn neared and the lutes played on, few showed signs of slowing. On Ikaria, the night belongs to the people — and the circle never really ends.