GILGIT: Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan received a rapturous welcome upon his return to Gilgit-Baltistan on Sunday, following his historic achievement of becoming the first Pakistani to scale all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
Sirbaz made history on October 4 by summiting Shishapangma (8,027 meters) in Tibet, marking the completion of his extraordinary feat of climbing all 14 of the planet’s “eight-thousanders” — mountains that exceed 8,000 meters in height. His achievement places him among an elite group of global climbers.
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Out of the 14 highest peaks, Sirbaz Khan has climbed 12 without the use of supplementary oxygen. Only Annapurna and Kanchenjunga remain for him to complete all 14 summits without oxygen assistance.
On his return to Gilgit-Baltistan, the 37-year-old climber was greeted by an enthusiastic crowd, including members of the Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly Col (r) Obaidullah Baig, Shamshad Bano, family, friends, and a large number of community members. Despite the overwhelming reception, no government officials were present at the event.
From Gilgit, Sirbaz was taken in a celebratory rally to his native Hunza valley. At the district’s entry point, locals, including men, women, and children, eagerly awaited their hero. Adorned with flower garlands, Sirbaz was welcomed with warmth and admiration from the community he has made proud. A special ceremony was held in Hunza to celebrate his monumental achievement, where the mountaineer joined in cultural dances, showcasing his connection to his roots.
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In an emotional address at the event, Sirbaz expressed gratitude to his community for their unwavering support since his first summit of Nanga Parbat. Sirbaz’s remarkable journey began in 2016 when he summited Nanga Parbat, becoming the first mountaineer to conquer the formidable peak during autumn.
Reflecting on his journey, he said, “Alhamdulillah, after years of relentless effort, my Mission 14 is complete. This is a dream come true not just for me, but for legendary climbers like Amir Mehdi, Nazir Sabir, Ashraf Aman, Samina Baig, Abdul Joshi, and many others whose dreams I have carried with me.”
However, the absence of key government bodies at the reception drew sharp criticism from local leaders and community members. Despite millions allocated for tourism development in Gilgit-Baltistan, no representatives from the federal government, the Gilgit-Baltistan government, the GB Tourism Department, the Alpine Club of Pakistan, or the Hunza District Administration attended the event to honor Sirbaz’s historic achievement.
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Local leaders, including Col (r) Obaidullah Baig and senior PPP leader Zahoor Advocate, voiced their disappointment. Mubarak Hussain, President of the Hunza Chamber of Small Traders and Small Industries, also condemned the oversight, criticizing the authorities for their lack of recognition of Sirbaz’s success. They argued that the absence of government officials reflected poorly on the region’s commitment to promoting tourism and honoring national heroes like Sirbaz Khan.